Redwood Hikes

A guide to California's old-growth coast redwood trails from Big Sur to Jed Smith

Complete trail listing  •  Buy printed trail maps

Questions? Comments? Please contact Dave Baselt at db@redwoodhikes.com

Click on grey boxes to view regional maps; click on park names to view park pages

** Siskiyou National Forest ***** Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park *** Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park ***** Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park *** Redwood National Park * Headwaters Forest Reserve *** Grizzly Creek Redwoods State Park and Van Duzen County Park **** Humboldt Redwoods State Park ** John B. Dewitt Redwoods State Natural Reserve *** Richardson Grove State Park * Smithe Redwoods State Reserve * Standish-Hickey State Recreation Area ***** Montgomery Woods State Natural Reserve **** Hendy Woods State Park * Mailliard Redwoods State Reserve ** Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve * Grove of the Old Trees ** Samuel P. Taylor State Park * Roy's Redwoods Open Space Preserve ** Muir Woods National Monument * Portola Redwoods State Park and Pescadero Creek County Park *** Big Basin Redwoods State Park * Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park ** Garrapata State Park * Andrew Molera State Park *** Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park *** Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park ** Limekiln State Park *** Los Padres National Forest Redwood National and State Parks Southern Humboldt County Mendocino and Sonoma Counties San Francisco Bay Area Big Sur

This site is a guide to hiking California's old-growth coastal redwoods. It contains descriptions, photos, and maps of almost every trail that has a significant amount of old-growth redwoods and is open to the public. Many notable trails that don't have a lot of old growth are also covered.

News

California state park closures

Due to a $14.2 million reduction in the 2009-2010 budget, many of California's state parks are closed weekdays and during the winter. At some parks, only the campgrounds are closed and day hiking is still possible. Other parks are completely closed and their access gates locked. The following list of closures is effective until July 2010, when a new fiscal year begins and the budget is further reduced.

  • Jedediah Smith, Del Norte Coast, and Prairie Creek: The Mill Creek campground is closed for the winter. The parks are otherwise open but unstaffed.

  • Grizzly Creek: the Eureka Times-Standard says the park is closed until at least July 2010. When I visited in November 2009, the park was not staffed, but the entrances to both the main park and Cheatham Grove were open, and there were no signs saying the park was closed.
  • Humboldt Redwoods: Hidden Springs campground is closed until July 2011. Albee Creek and Cuneo Creek campgrounds are closed until Memorial Day 2010. Despite what the official park website says, Burlington Campground is open. The trails are accessible as usual.
  • Richardson Grove: Oak Flat campground is closed until July 2011, but the Huckleberry and Madrone campgrounds are open.
  • Standish-Hickey: the entire park is closed until an undetermined date in 2010; the main entrance is blocked off with signs saying "area closed". The lower (Redwood) campground is closed until July 2011. However, the Taber Nature Trail and its parking area are not blocked off or marked as closed.
  • Montgomery Woods: open as usual.
  • Hendy Woods: all campgrounds are closed until March 25, 2010.
  • Armstrong Redwoods and Austin Creek: all campgrounds, including backcountry campgrounds, are closed until at least June 30, 2010.
  • Samuel P. Taylor: reservations cannot be made until March 25, 2010, but the main campground is open. Madrone Group Camp is closed but Devil's Gulch Group Camp is open.
  • Muir Woods and Mount Tamalpais: visitors will not be able to drive to the top of Mount Tamalpais on weekdays until at least June 30, 2010. The Bootjack parking lot on Mount Tamalpais is also closed weekends.
  • Portola: the entire park is closed Sunday through Thursday until April 2010.
  • Big Basin: all trail camps are closed until April 2010. Drive-in campgrounds are only open on Friday and Saturday nights until March 2010.
  • Butano: the entire park is closed until April 30, 2010.
  • Henry Cowell: campgrounds are closed. They are expected to reopen for summer 2010 but the date is not yet known.
  • Andrew Molera: the East Ridge Trail has been closed since 2008.
  • Pfeiffer Big Sur: trails east of Highway One have been closed since a 2008 fire. The campground is open.
  • Julia Pfeiffer Burns: the Ewoldsen and Tanbark Trails have been closed since 2008. The short trail to McWay Falls is open, and the picnic area at the Ewoldsen Trail trailhead can still be accessed.
  • Limekiln: the entire park has been closed since a 2008 fire. The entrance gate at Highway 1 is locked; a sign on the gate says "do not enter".

In addition, parking fees have increased. For example, parking at the McWay Canyon lot at Julia-Pfeiffer-Burns is now $10 - and with current trail closures, the only things that can be reached from this parking lot are a quarter-mile-long trail, a few picnic benches, and a restroom. Fees will also be introduced for some parking lots that used to be free, like the Visitor Center lot at Prairie Creek.

Parks that don't have the word "State" in their name, like Redwood National Park, are unaffected by the budget reductions and should remain open.

Other closures

Redwood Hostel (Redwood National Park): faced with a bill for $1.5 million to make the structure ADA-compliant and earthquake-safe, the hostel is expected to close indefinitely on January 18, 2010.

Redwood Nature Trail (Siskiyou National Forest, Oregon): Closed until at least Spring 2010 to prevent the spread of Sudden Oak Death.

National Geographic article

The October issue of National Geographic has a story on the redwoods. The National Geographic Channel is also airing an episode of "Explorer" about the redwoods.

Top picks

In general, the further north you go, the better the redwoods. To really experience the redwoods I'd suggest visiting at least three parks:

Currently, the tallest tree in the world is the Hyperion Tree in Redwood National Park. The tree is not accessible by trail and its location is kept secret to prevent visitors from trampling the soil around the tree. The tree is on a hillside, not in the Tall Trees Grove.

Hiking the redwoods

California's redwood forests are famous for being home to the tallest living things on the planet, but there's much more to these extraordinary woodlands than the size of the trees. At their best, redwood forests are suffused with a sense of openness and serenity. Sun-dappled, elegantly fluted tree trunks shoot straight as an arrow into the sky, while below are burbling streams, spectacular fallen trunks, and a lush accumulation of ferns, sorrel, moss, and lichen. Many redwood trails are also a pleasure to walk because they're so well constructed: wide, smooth, and easy to walk, with a springy mud-resistant carpeting of needles, and bridges to span even minor obstacles. The forest is cool in the summer but rarely below freezing in the winter, and (except for Muir Woods) the parks are almost never crowded.

The old James Irvine Trail in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park

James Irvine Trail, Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park

California has six major redwood parks, each with their own character. Prairie Creek, for example, is an aggressively lush and green coastal forest, while Jedidiah Smith is filled with light and is the most photogenic. Del Norte has a unique location on a prominent coastal bluff, while Redwoods National Park occupies a large and heavily-logged inland valley. Humboldt Redwoods is best known for its dark, dense, and flat lowlands, and Big Basin has the mixed-species woodlands typical of southern redwood forests. Of these six parks, Jedediah Smith and Prairie Creek clearly have the best-preserved and most scenic hikes.

At least 15 other parks have small old-growth groves and should not be overlooked. Many of these parks are just as enjoyable as the big parks and, in addition to outstanding redwoods, offer a wide variety of other scenery, from the dramatic coastal bluffs of Big Sur to the rolling farmlands of the Anderson Valley.

Total area of and amount of old growth in some of California's redwood parks

Within each park, the largest trees are normally found in the flat bottoms of creek valleys, where the soil moisture is the highest. These alluvial flats host the spectacular, cathedral-like groves that redwoods are famous for. Most redwood parks are centered around an alluvial flat that originally inspired the creation of the park. These alluvial flats, which usually aren't very big to begin with, are often the site of highways and parking lots, making it difficult to appreciate their unique and serene character. The most striking example of this type of forest is the Bull Creek area in Humboldt Redwoods State Park.

The Timms Creek Trail, Big Basin Redwoods State Park

Little grove in the late afternoon, Timms Creek Trail, Big Basin Redwoods State Park

Uplands tend to have fewer big redwoods and more trees of other species. The difference is more pronounced in drier and hotter parks like Big Basin and Humboldt Redwoods. On the other hand, in Prairie Creek, Del Norte, and Jedidiah Smith parks, large redwoods can cover the hills right up to the ridgelines. Uplands can make great hiking because the hills make the trail more interesting. A great example of redwood uplands is the Miners' Ridge Trail in Prairie Creek State Park.

Redwood woodlands generally get more scenic as you go north. The northernmost parks tend to have the biggest trees and the lushest, healthiest appearance. The southern parks tend to be drier, have less greenery and more dead tanoak leaves on the ground, and often have a a dense layer of shrubs that obstructs views of the redwoods. On the other hand, the southern parks have better weather and there's more to do after the hike.

When to visit

Park visitor count is from the National Park Service website.
Climate data is from the Western Regional Climate Center website.

All the redwood parks can be visited year-round. Most people visit in summer, which is understandable - it hardly ever rains, all the trails are open, and the days are long so you can spend more time outdoors.

For sheer scenic beauty, winter is the best time to visit the redwoods. If you're willing to take a chance on the weather, the payoff can be a truly special experience. The rain washes the dust off the foliage, and the woods are filled with the sound of rushing creeks. The sunlight (if it's sunny) has a sweet, gentle quality because the sun is always low in the sky. Mist, fog, or gentle drizzle can really enhance the scenery. And you'll practically have the park to yourself.

Winter weather is definitely rainy, but it's usually not that bad. It tends to get stuck in either a wet or dry pattern for several days or even weeks at a time, so there's a risk of your trip being ruined by a week-long deluge. Even if it's not raining during your visit, there could be trail and road closures due to wind or water damage. Winter trips are definitely more advisable if you live nearby and can change your plans at the last minute.

Fall is also a good time to visit. The weather doesn't turn really rainy until mid-November and there are fewer visitors than in summer. It's not quite New England, but Humboldt County gets a little fall color as the maples turn yellow, usually from mid-October to mid-November.

Complete trail listing

Click on the links below to view the regional, park, and hike pages. Parks are listed from north to south. Each park and trail has been rated from one to five stars based on how enjoyable it is overall, with an emphasis on redwoods.

Key to table colors

Park names
 Old growth redwood hikes 
Other hikes

 

Overall Rating Distance, miles Climbing, feet Trail name
Oregon
* * Siskiyou National Forest
* * 1.1 290 Redwood Nature Trail
* 1.7 280 Oregon Redwoods Trail
Redwood National and State Parks
* * * * * Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park
* * * * * 5.3 750 Boy Scout Tree Trail
* * * * * 0.6 40 Stout Grove
* * * 7.4 250 Mill Creek Trail
* * * 4.3 360 Hatton Trail
* * * 0.9 20 Simpson-Reed Trail
* * * 2.0 330 Leiffer and Ellsworth Loops
* * 4.4 420 Hiouchi Trail
* * * Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park
* * * 4.0 1170 Damnation Creek Trail
* * 12.6 2370 Coastal Trail, DeMartin Section
* * 13.0 2810 Coastal Trail, Last Chance Section
* * * * * Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park
* * * * * 11.6 1350 Miners' Ridge and James Irvine
* * * * 3.5 540 Brown Creek loop
* * * 3.2 190 Big Tree loop
* * * 3.5 710 Ten Taypo Trail
* * * 8.7 1050 Rhododendron and Foothill
* * * 5.1 730 Rhododendron and Cal Barrel
* * * 5.8 760 West Ridge and Prairie Creek South
* * * 7.7 1433 West Ridge and Rhododendron North
* * * 8.0 960 Friendship Ridge Trail
* * 0.6 40 Ah Pah Trail
* * 1.0 110 Nature Trail
* * * Redwood National Park
* * * 5.5 700 Emerald Ridge and Tall Trees
* * * 1.4 100 Lady Bird Johnson Grove Nature Trail
* * * 9.5 1520 Coastal Trail, Flint Ridge Section
* * * 2.8 440 Trillium Falls Trail
* * * 3.9 690 Tall Trees Grove
* * * 10.4 2490 Dolason Prairie Trail
* * 15.4 500 Redwood Creek Trail
* * 14.1 1400 McArthur Creek Loop
* 22.0 3100 Lost Man Creek Trail
* 3.5 550 Lyons Ranch Trail
* 10.4 1970 Mill Creek Horse Trail
Southern Humboldt County
* Headwaters Forest Reserve
* 10.7 1460 Elk River Trail
* * * Grizzly Creek Redwoods State Park and Van Duzen County Park
* * * * 0.7 10 Cheatham Grove
* * * * Humboldt Redwoods State Park
* * * * 2.4 110 Homestead and Big Tree Loop
* * * * 0.6 10 Big Tree Area
* * * * 0.7 20 Rockefeller Loop
* * * * 0.3 10 Grieg-French-Bell Grove
* * * 10.0 300 Bull Creek Flats
* * * 3.0 280 High Rock Trail
* * * 2.4 30 Drury-Chaney Loop
* * * 1.3 20 Founders' Grove
* * * 0.7 30 Stephens Grove Loop Trail
* * * 2.3 790 Allens Trail
* * 0.4 20 F.K. Lane Trail
* * 0.7 10 Nature Trail
* * 0.4 40 Kent-Mather Loop Trail
* 16.2 3200 Grasshopper Summit and Johnson Camp
* 13.4 2610 Look Prairie and Peavine Ridge
* * John B. Dewitt Redwoods State Natural Reserve
* 0.6 20 Holbrook Grove
* * 0.3 50 Whittemore Grove
* * * Richardson Grove State Park
* * 2.4 340 Lookout Point Trail
* Smithe Redwoods State Natural Reserve
      Park has no trails
* Standish-Hickey State Recreation Area
* 1.7 130 Taber Nature Trail
Mendocino and Sonoma Counties
* * * * * Montgomery Woods State Natural Reserve
* * * * * 2.0 220 Montgomery Grove Trail
* * * * Hendy Woods State Park
* * * * 1.4 20 Big Hendy
* 2.7 270 Hermit Huts and Little Hendy
* * Mailliard Redwoods State Natural Reserve
      Park has no trails
* * * Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve
* * 1.3 50 Colonel Armstrong Tree loop
* Grove of the Old Trees
* 0.6 50 Grove of the Old Trees
San Francisco Bay Area
* * Samuel P. Taylor State Park
* 2.7 190 Pioneer Tree Trail
** 10.6 1200 Bolinas Ridge
** 5.8 1340 Barnabe Peak
* Roy's Redwoods Open Space Preserve
* 3.0 400 Roy's Redwoods Loop Trail
* * Muir Woods National Monument
* * 2.0 120 Main Trail
* * 5.2 1100 Ben Johnson Trail
* * 3.9 890 Dipsea and Steep Ravine
* * * 8.5 2080 Willow Camp and Steep Ravine
* * * 0.6 30 Dad O'Roarke's Bench
* * 4.5 930 Sun Trail
* Portola Redwoods State Park and Pescadero Creek County Park
* * 0.5 80 Heritage Grove
* * 11.5 1820 Peters Creek loop
* * 5.8 1100 Coyote Ridge and Tarwater Loop
* * 4.6 880 Mount Ellen Loop
* 10.0 1270 Tarwater - Pomponio - Brook - Canyon
* 6.0 990 Heritage Grove Trail
* * * Big Basin Redwoods State Park
* * * 10.0 2150 Berry Creek loop
* * * 0.6 10 Redwood loop
* * 4.5 420 Sequoia Trail
* 8.0 1060 Hollow Tree and Meteor trails
* 3.0 360 Blooms Creek loop
* 3.0 500 Creeping Forest loop
* 4.7 320 Shadowbrook Trail
* * * 9.4 2450 West Ridge Trail
* * 12.0 1860 Basin Trail
* * 4.8 1200 Buzzard's Roost
* Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park
* * 0.8 20 Redwood Grove Loop Trail
* * 6.6 1360 Four Crossings
* 7.0 1480 Truck Trail and Fall Creek
* 8.2 1760 Big Ben and Fall Creek
Big Sur
* * Garrapata State Park
* * * 4.7 1750 Rocky Ridge and Soberanes Canyon
* Molera State Park
* * 7.5 1300 Ridge, Panorama, and Bluffs loop
* * 3.2 1390 East Molera Trail
* 4.1 140 River Trail
* * * Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park
* * 2.2 560 Pfeiffer Falls and Valley View Trails
* * 9.4 3050 Mount Manuel Trail
* * * Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park
* * * * 5.1 1450 Ewoldsen Trail
* * 6.3 1980 Tan Bark Trail
* * Limekiln State Park
* * 2.1 480 Limekiln, Limekiln Falls, and Hare Creek Trails
* * * Los Padres National Forest
* * * * 10.8 2360 Vicente Flat Trail

Redwood Sorrel in Rockefeller Grove, Humboldt Redwoods State Park

Disclaimer

Trails are rated for scenery, not safety. The fact that a trail is discussed or shown on a map on this site does not imply that it is safe for all visitors, even under ideal conditions. Furthermore, trails may not be well-maintained and may have become impassable since the last time I walked them. Notices may not posted at the trailhead when this happens, so always ask about trail conditions at park headquarters before your trip.

About the maps

Trails and some roads were mapped with a handheld global positioning system (GPS) receiver. The GPS tracks are overlaid on 7.5 minute (1:25,000 scale) USGS digital line graphs with hillshading derived from 1/3 arc second USGS digital elevation models. Roads outside of park boundaries are mostly derived from the digital line graphs and are therefore more likely to be outdated or contain inaccuracies.

Map legend

 


 

© 2006-10 David Baselt

 

 

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