Del Norte Coast Redwoods State ParkA redwood park on high coastal bluffsCalifornia > Redwood National and State Parks
Perched on a steep hillside above the Pacific Ocean, Del Norte Coast Redwoods is the only major redwood park that doesn't have any lowland redwoods. Surprisingly, though, the park still has some very impressive groves. The high, west-facing hillside is perfectly positioned to catch the summer fog as it streams off the ocean, keeping the trees well-nourished through the summer droughts. Because the higher slopes get more fog (and because redwoods don't like salt spray), the trees get bigger and bigger as you climb up the hill - exactly the opposite of what you'd find in any other redwood park. With its often foggy weather and its abundance of rhododendrons, the park is especially photogenic. If you've ever seen a picture of huge redwoods in the fog with masses of pink flowers at their bases, it was probably taken here.
Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park from Enderts Beach Road As a hiking destination, though, Del Norte Coast Redwoods is a little disappointing. Highway 101 runs right through the narrow band that contains the largest and most scenic redwoods, just west of the park's highest ridge, so those photogenic scenes are usually accompanied by the roar of trucks. Also, there are only two old-growth trails, and the longer of the two (the Coastal Trail), while very scenic, misses most of the really good redwoods. Del Norte Coast Redwoods has a very nice campground. Located well away from the highway, it's the only one of the three state-owned campgrounds in Redwood National and State Parks where you won't hear any traffic noise. Although there aren't any old-growth redwoods, the campground is located in an attractive wooded area and it feels less crowded than other local campgrounds. The main drawback is that you can't go on a long old-growth hike without getting in your car and driving. Del Norte has recently been dramatically expanded by the addition of the Mill Creek watershed. Acquired in 2002, this area was almost entirely clearcut in the 1970s, 80s, and 90s. It has an extensive network of logging roads, some of which can now be used as loop trails. Most of these trails aren't all that interesting, but the area is quiet and peaceful, there's an occasional scenic view, and the roads make for easy hiking, biking, or riding. Since the area was recently logged, the roads tend to be bright and sunny. The watershed is only open to the public on weekends.
The Coastal Trail near the Damnation Creek Trail The Mill Creek Watershed
This 40-square-mile property was purchased from Stimson Lumber Company in 2002 to protect Jedediah Smith Redwoods from the detrimental effects of upstream logging. The land has been heavily logged, with only a few small old-growth groves remaining. The watershed contains an extensive network of dirt and gravel logging roads, many of which are now being removed. Some of the remaining roads have been designated as trails and are open to the public for hiking, horseback riding, and mountain biking between 9 am and 5 pm on weekends (if you're not out by 5 pm you'll be locked in). The state plans to eventually designate a new trail network (still based on the old logging roads) in addition to building a visitor center and much-needed in-park lodging on the site of the former mill. Although part of Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, the Mill Creek Watershed is completely different from the rest of the park. It still has the feel of recently-logged timberland; for example, the tree canopy does not close over most of the roads, giving them a bright, open appearance. Although there aren't any noteworthy sights, it's actually quite a pleasant place to go for a walk, with miles of quiet, green, well-maintained roads. It's a good idea to continuously record a track with a GPS unit and also use a good map when hiking or riding in the Mill Creek Watershed. There are a lot of roads here, they all look the same, and they go on for miles without ever arriving anywhere. Fortunately the timber company road signs are still up, but there are few park signs to keep you on the trail or direct you to a destination. If you get lost here, it could be very difficult to find your way out.
First Gulch in the Mill Creek Watershed Old-growth redwood hikes
*** Damnation Creek Trail (4.0 miles) ** Coastal Trail, DeMartin Section (12.6 miles) ** Coastal Trail, Last Chance Section (13.0 miles) Other hikes
* Picnic Road (3.1 miles) * Hobbs Wall and Saddler Skyline (7.0 miles) Getting to Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park
The park is on Highway 101 just south of Crescent City and about an hour north of Arcata. There is no main entrance and no visitor center. Like all of Redwood National and State Parks, there's no entrance fee.
The Damnation Creek Trail
© 2008 David Baselt |
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