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The magnificent, light-filled redwood forest of Jed Smith is the most scenic of all redwood forests. The forest is remarkably unspoiled, maybe too much so for hikers, since there's really only one dead-end trail that explores the interior of the park. Not surprisingly the biggest coast redwood by volume grows here, although its location is secret.
In addition to a huge swath of the lushest redwood forest anywhere, this remarkable park has a scenic undeveloped beach and a herd of wild elk, plus the popular Fern Canyon. The park has an extensive network of trails, most notably the superb Miners' Ridge and James Irvine loop.
Redwood National Park doesn't have any really impressive old-growth redwood hikes like Jed Smith, Prairie Creek, and Del Norte State Parks. It does, however, have more of a wilderness feel, without the traffic noise that plagues many of the state park trails. The tallest tree in the world grows here, but it's inaccessible to all but the most determined bushwhacker.
Battery Point Lighthouse, Crescent City
Lodging
The area immediately around Redwood National and State Parks has surprisingly few places to stay and eat. If you don't want to camp, by far the best place to stay is the ultra-liberal college town of Arcata, 40 minutes south of the park. This compact and colorful town is an enjoyable destination in its own right, with a nice selection of restaurants and an active music and theater scene. All the businesses in central Arcata are locally-owned, adding to the town's character.
The best places to stay in Arcata are vacation rental properties, some of which have the quality of high-end inns but at lower prices and with more privacy.
The self-described Victorian Village of Ferndale is also nice, although it's about 25 minutes further south so I haven't stayed there. The town, set on a coastal plain among strikingly verdent dairy fields, is a lot smaller than Arcata.
- Arcata Stay offers six different rental studios. I've only stayed at Scenic View Stay, which is located on a hill above town, behind the owner's house and above a standalone garage. You get to use the garage, which is a real plus on rainy winter days. Inside, the studio is new and impeccably maintained. It feels like a high-end hotel except there's no maid service and there aren't any other guests around. Very comfortable and professionally-run.
- Arcata Studio Retreat is in a nice suburban neighborhood a few blocks from the center of town. The studio, attached to the back of an older house, is bright, modern, and very well-maintained. Its large (and drapeless) picture windows overlook an always-blooming garden and a pleasing view of a hillside residential neighborhood. More casual than Arcata Stay, the studio has a nice local character.
- Redwood Adventures has a row of cabins on a finger of private land that pokes into Redwood National Park. I haven't stayed here, but the cabins look really nice and they're the closest lodging to the park's main sights. However, the cabins are right next to Highway 101, so traffic noise might be a concern. Also, there aren't any decent restaurants or grocery stores nearby, so stock up on food before you go.
Restaurants (Arcata)
Arcata, Eureka, and Ferndale have a nice collection of restaurants. Most close by 9 pm, although that usually means you can arrive for dinner as late as 9, and not that you have to be finished by 9.
- Folie Douce is Arcata's finest restaurant. The limited menu mainly focuses on pizzas and grilled meats, all made with locally-grown organic ingredients. The grilled meats come with potatoes and vegetables, making a substantial meal. Ideal if you want a nice place to eat after a long hike. Meals run about $50 without wine. Dress is casual; many customers wear t-shirts. 1551 G Street, Arcata. Tue-Thu 5:30-9 pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-10 pm; closed Sun & Mon.
- Wildfower Cafe and Bakery is the local vegetarian hangout and is without a doubt the most appropriate place to eat after a day of hiking the redwoods. Quintessentially Arcata, this restaurant serves very satisfying dinners. I like the West Indian curry. Breakfasts are also good but a little on the small side. Sun-Wed 8 am-8 pm; Thu-Sat 8 am-9 pm.
- Hunan Village in Arcata is surprisingly good, especially for a small-town Chinese restaurant. Portions are huge. 752 18th Street, Arcata. Mon-Fri 11 am-9 pm, Sat 2 pm-9 pm, closed Sun. Closed most holiday weekends (Columbus Day, President's Day, etc.).
- 3 Foods Cafe has an eclectic menu of Indian, Moroccan, Thai, Korean, and other ethnic dishes. Appetizers tend to be small and artsy, but the main dishes are more down-to-earth and very flavorful. The restaurant, located in a former warehouse, is elegantly decorated but the customers are casually dressed. You can have your food delivered with a silly walk for $1 extra. 835 J Street, Arcata (behind the Co-Op). Tue-Thu 5:30-10pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-11 pm; closed Sun & Mon. May be closed Tuesdays in summer.
- Like Wildflower Cafe, Daybreak Cafe is a cozy, (mostly) vegetarian hippie hangout - but it's even more funky and laid-back, if such a thing is possible. This slightly dilapidated diner with a warm, friendly atmosphere serves egg dishes, pancakes, and a few lunch items. Breakfast servings are huge. Check out the local art on the walls as you drizzle Awesome Sauce on your huevos rancheros. 768 18th Street, Arcata. 7 am-4 pm 7 days a week.
- The wildly popular Tomo Japanese Restaurant serves robust Japanese food including great sushi. Go early to avoid the crowds. 708 9th Street, Arcata (on the plaza; enter through the Hotel Arcata lobby).
- Just down the street is Sushi Spot, which is also very popular. The focus here is on sushi and there's only a limited selection of other dishes. 670 9th Street, Arcata. Tue-Thu 4 pm-9 pm, Fri-Sat 4 pm-10 pm, closed Sun-Mon. Open on most holidays.
- Hunan Plaza has pretty good food, but the dining room is small and noisy compared to the relatively sedate Hunan Village. A good backup for when Hunan Village is closed, which is a lot. 761 8th Street, Arcata (south side of plaza). Tue-Thu 11 am-9:15 pm, Fri 11 am-9:45 pm, Sat noon-9:45 pm, Sun noon-9:15 pm, closed Mon.
- Renata's Creperie serves tasty crepes and big bowls of soup in a funky coffehouse setting (bare wooden tables with mismatched chairs, local art on the walls). Lots of local color. Perhaps reflecting the restaurant's orgin as a lunch truck, the crepe fillings tend to be simple, based on cheese, egg, and ham. A great place for breakfast. At up to $30 per person, dinner can be a bit expensive, but it's good. 1030 G Street, Arcata, just north of the plaza. Tue-Sun 8 am-3 pm, Fri-Sat 5 pm-9 pm, closed Mon.
- Cafe Brio: on the plaza, Arcata. Mainly serves pastries and sandwiches; more expensive dinners served Wed-Fri. Sat-Sun 8-7; Mon-Tue 7-4; Wed-Thu 7-7; Fri 7-9.
- La Trattoria is a small mom-and-pop place serving updated Italian food with an emphasis on fresh, natural flavors. The web page makes it look a lot fancier than it is. The menu is limited (6 pasta dishes, 1 non-pasta dish, 3 appetizers, a salad, and a dessert) and changes daily. As post-hike food it's not quite satisfying, but it's perfect if you want a light dinner. 30 Sunnybrae Center, Sunny Brae. Take the Samoa / Sunny Brae exit of Highway 101 toward Sunny Brae. Turn left at the second traffic circle, then pull into the strip mall on your left. La Trattoria is in the little building off to the side of the main building. Thu-Sun 5:30-9 pm; closed Mon-Wed.
- After 10 pm there's not much open in Arcata except Humbrews, which has burgers and sandwiches. 856 10th Street, Arcata. Mon-Wed 11:30 am-midnight, Thu-Sat 11:30 am-2 am, Sun 11:30 am-9 pm.
Restaurants (Eureka and Ferndale)
- Marcelli's Ravioli and Sausage Factory in Eureka might not have the greatest decor, but its classic Italian-American fare is perfect comfort food after a long hike. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm.
- Restaurant 301, in the Hotel Carter, is the area's fanciest restaurant. The food really is good, although personally, after a long hike I prefer a more down-to-earth restaurant.
- Curley's Grill: 400 Ocean Ave, Ferndale. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-9 pm; Sun 8:00 am-9 pm.
Grocery stores
- No visit to an old-growth redwood park can properly begin without a visit to a hippie grocery store, and the Arcata Co-Op is one of the best, with such redwood hiking essentials as grilled tofu sandwiches and fresh-baked vegetarian hot pockets. The bakery also makes good pastries and pies. 6 am-9 pm, 7 days a week.
- Wildberry's has a more yuppie-ish ambiance, although it still gets its share of hippies. There are fewer backpack-friendly foods to be found here, but the Ramone's Bakery counter inside the store (open until 9 pm) has ham-and-swiss croissants and a nice selection of pastries. 7 am-11 pm, 7 days a week.
Other stores
- The area's best store for outdoor gear is Adventure's Edge. 630 10th Street, Arcata (well-hidden a block north and east of the plaza). Mon-Sat 9 am-6 pm, Sun 11 am-5 pm.
Entertainment
- The Humboldt Music website has the most complete list of upcoming music events.
- KHUM's Good Time Guide is another list of upcoming concerts and plays.
Memorial Lighthouse, Trinidad
© 2005-7 David Baselt
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