 |
Redwood National
|
| Campground | Stays/yr | Stays/site/yr |
|---|---|---|
| Redwood Creek | 1038 | (no defined sites) |
| Nickel Creek | 775 | 155 |
| Flint Ridge | 697 | 77 |
| Elam and 44 Camps | 216 | 31 |
| DeMartin | 140 | 13 |
| Little Bald Hills | 69 | 26 |
Overnight stays per year in Redwood National Park backcountry campgrounds, 2000 - 2007.
Data from the Redwood National Park Trail and Backcountry Management Plan Environmental Assessment, Redwood National Park, April 2009
The Coastal Trail
The Coastal Trail is the most popular multi-day backpacking route in Redwood National and State Parks. A series of "primitive" or "environmental" campgrounds (i.e., no facilities, just some picnic tables and a pit toilet) are spaced at 10-mile intervals along this trail.
There aren't a whole lot of redwoods on the Coastal Trail; the only section with redwoods is the stretch between Nickel Creek and DeMartin campgrounds. From Miners' Ridge and Redwood Creek you can leave the Coastal Trail for some excellent loop hikes into the redwoods. Also, it's possible to add some really nice redwoods by starting at Jedediah Smith Campground and hiking to Nickel Creek Primitive Campground, but then the first day would be 15 miles.
For more information, see the book Hiking the California Coastal Trail, Volume One, by Bob Lorentzen and Richard Nichols (2002). Also, "Fitpacking" conducts guided tours of the Coastal Trail, and you can check out their itineraries from 2006, 2007, and 2008.
- Nickel Creek Primitive Campground to DeMartin Campground: Nickel Creek is the park's most popular primitive campground (excluding Redwood Creek). It has 5 sites and is located on an open hillside overlooking the ocean. The hike to DeMartin is 10 miles with some pretty nice redwoods along the way. DeMartin campground has 11 sites and is located in a small meadow surrounded by non-redwood forest. It gets some traffic noise from Highway 101. No permit or fee is required to camp there. The Redwood Hostel, on Highway 101, is unfortunately closing in January 2010.
- DeMartin Campground to Flint Ridge campground: 10 miles minimum, if you get a boat ride. Mostly coastal forest, which is pretty nice, but no redwoods to speak of. The Flint Ridge campground is pretty nice, with 11 sites in a small clearing; although it's near the ocean, there's no view. No permit or fee is needed to camp there.
There's no easy way to cross the Klamath River. Some guidebooks suggest taking a boat ride across, but there's no organized service; you just have to go to boat docks on Mouth of Klamath Road and hope you find some guy with a boat who's willing to take you across. There may not even be anyone around. If you're hiking south to north you certainly won't be able to get a boat ride since there's nothing at all on the south shore. The alternative is to take a 10.3-mile detour, mostly on paved roads, from Requa, to Highway 101, to the Flint Ridge section of the Coastal Trail. The detour includes 3.3 miles of rather unpleasant walking on Highway 101. - Flint Ridge Campground to Ossagon Creek Campground: 7.1 miles. You have to hike on Coastal Drive (a dirt road) most of the way, but the last few miles are on a scenic beach. Ossagon Creek Campground is one of the more secluded backcountry camps and has a nice location in a clearing just off the beach. A permit and fee are required to camp there.
- Ossagon Creek campground to Miners' Ridge Hikers' Camp: 4.2 miles. There's some really scenic (and deserted) beach along this stretch. The beach may not be passable at high tide, especially in winter. The Miners' Ridge Campground is ona low hill under some spruce trees. A permit and fee are required to camp there. From the Miners' Ridge camp you can hike some really nice loops through Prairie Creek's old-growth redwoods.
- Miners' Ridge Hikers' Camp to Gold Bluffs Environmental Campground: 2.9 miles. The Gold Bluffs campground is in a somewhat dark and dreary-looking wooded ravine. No permit or fee is required to camp there.
- Gold Bluffs Environmental Campground to Redwood Creek: 10.3 miles. Redwood Creek isn't part of the Coastal Trail, but this is an obvious extension of a Coastal Trail hike. See the Redwood Creek Trail page for more information.
Prairie Creek
A popular two-day backpacking trip goes from the Prairie Creek Visitor's Center to the Ossagon Creek campground and back. Several very nice loop routes are possible. Avoid taking the West Ridge Trail the entire way, since the trail can get monotonous.
Little Bald Hills
The Little Bald Hills campground is mainly intended for horseback riders. It's secluded and quiet, but doesn't offer a lot of nearby hiking destinations.
Redwood Creek
In summer there's some great camping along the creek upstream of the first seasonal bridge. This is the only place in the park where you don't have to camp in a campground; you can set up your tent anywhere you like along the wide gravel banks of the creek. A permit is required. Optionally, camp two nights and use the extra day for a 10-mile (depending on where you camp) out-and-back hike along Redwood Creek to the Tall Trees Grove, or perhaps even further, up the Dolason Prairie Trail. Camping here is not possible in winter since there's no way to get across the creek and the banks are often flooded. See the Redwood Creek Trail page for more information.
Battery Point Lighthouse, Crescent City
Lodging
Most of the towns around Redwood National and State Parks are a little on the seedy side and have surprisingly few places to stay and eat. The two exceptions are Arcata and Ferndale, and there are also some nice places to stay a few miles to the north, in Oregon.
.By far the best place to stay is the ultra-liberal college town of Arcata, 40 minutes south of Prairie Creek and 1 hour and 15 minutes south of Jedediah Smith. Personally I think the extra driving is well worth it, because you can stay in a much nicer place, enjoy dinner at a much better restaurant, and shop for provisions at a real grocery store. This compact and colorful town is an enjoyable destination in its own right, offering an attractive setting, numerous festivals, and an active music and theater scene. All the businesses in central Arcata are locally-owned, adding to the town's character.
The self-described Victorian Village of Ferndale is also nice, although it's about 25 minutes further away from Redwood National and State Parks, so I haven't stayed there. The town, set on a coastal plain among strikingly verdent dairy fields, is a lot smaller than Arcata.
Under $50/night
- The best drive-in campgrounds are the Elk Prairie and Gold Bluffs Beach campgrounds in Prairie Creek, both of which are in very attractive settings within walking distance of spectacular old-growth hikes. Gold Bluffs Beach doesn't take reservations; you have to go to the campground around noon (earlier if it's a busy summer weekend) and wait for someone to leave, then take the spot and pay the attendant. Due to the state's budget issues the fee is now $35/night.
- There are quite a few RV parks on Highway 101 in Klamath and Crescent City. For example, check out the Mystic Forest RV park in Klamath, which is conveniently located and has both RV sites and tent camping sites. $25/night.
- For a cheaper camping alternative near Jed Smith, check out Florence Keller County Park or Ruby Deventer County Park. These parks might not be quite as nice as the state-owned campgrounds, but they're often available when the state campgrounds are booked up, and they only cost $10/night. Florence Keller doesn't take reservations.
- If you use Priceline to bid on a 3-star hotel in Eureka, you could get a room at the Red Lion for as little as $40/night. However, you'll end up paying an extra $10-$20/day for gas to drive up to the park.
$50 - $100/night
- Sadly, with the closure of the Redwood Hostel, there are no longer any really cheap places to stay indoors near the parks. For single travelers, the best deal is the $50/night rate at Hiouchi Motel, on busy Highway 199 just down the street from the Jed Smith campground. They charge more for double occupancy ($65/night).
- Orick, Klamath, and Crescent City have a lot of motels alongside Highway 101. They all cost about $70-$100, which seems a little expensive. The Ravenwood Motel, for example, is well-regarded and conveniently located halfway between Jed Smith and Prairie Creek on Highway 101. $75/night, max 2 people/room
Over $100/night
- Vacation rental properties tend to be the best value in this price range, with lower prices and more privacy than hotels or B&Bs. Arcata Stay offers six different rental studios that are a really good value for the money. I've only stayed at Scenic View Stay, which is located on a hill above town, behind the owner's house and above a standalone garage. You get to use the garage, which is a real plus on rainy winter days. Inside, the studio is new and impeccably maintained. It's kind of like a high-end hotel except there's no maid service and there aren't any other guests around. It's also really quiet. Very comfortable and professionally-run. $169/night
- An equally good vacation rental property is Arcata Studio Retreat, located in a nice suburban neighborhood a few blocks from the center of town. The studio, attached to the back of an older house, is bright, modern, and very well-maintained. Despite its central location it's very quiet. Its large (and drapeless) picture windows overlook an always-blooming garden and a pleasing view of a hillside residential neighborhood. The studio has a nice local character. $165/night.
- Redwood Adventures has a row of cabins on a strip of private land that pokes into Redwood National Park. I haven't stayed here, but the cabins look nice and they're the closest lodging to Redwood National Park and Prairie Creek. However, the cabins are right next to Highway 101, so traffic noise might be a concern. Also, there aren't any decent restaurants or grocery stores nearby, so stock up on food before you go. $229/night.
- I haven't stayed there, but Requa Inn looks decent and has a great location right in the middle of the park. The inn overlooks the Klamath River, although the view is somewhat spoiled by power lines. The inn also sits right on Requa Road, and some reviews on TripAdvisor note that a lot of fisherman drive by your room early on summer mornings. Also, if the inn's restaurant happens to be closed, there aren't any other places to eat in the area. $99 - $169/night.
- About 20 minutes north of Jedediah Smith park, TuTu'Tun Lodge is a top-notch accommodation on the banks of the scenic Rogue River. Dinners (which tend toward simple, home-cooked flavors) are served at large tables where you sit with other guests, who always seem to be exceptionally friendly and engaging. The only problem is that the inn is so popular that you have to be extremely lucky to get in. See the TripAdvisor reviews for more information. $235 - $365/night in summer for rooms, more for suites.
Restaurants (Arcata)
Arcata, Eureka, and Ferndale have a nice collection of restaurants. Arcata in particular is a haven for independent restaurants with lots of character; the big chain restaurants are all relegated to the edge of town. Most restaurants in the area close by 9 pm, although that usually means you can arrive for dinner as late as 9, and not that you have to be finished by 9.
- Folie Douce is Arcata's fanciest restaurant. This being Arcata, it's still pretty casual, with an open kitchen, brown butcher paper on the tables and customers in t-shirts. The menu is short; they mainly serve pizzas and grilled meats, made with locally-grown organic ingredients. Servings are substantial and the grilled items come with potatoes and vegetables, making a satisfying meal. This is a great place if you want a really nice place to eat after a long hike. Meals run about $50 without wine. 1551 G Street, Arcata. Tue-Thu 5:30-9 pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-10 pm; closed Sun & Mon.
- Wildflower Cafe and Bakery is the local vegetarian hangout and is without doubt the most fitting place to eat after a day of hiking the redwoods. Quintessentially Arcata, this ultra-casual restaurant serves very satisfying dinners. They also serve great breakfasts (eggs are apparently considered vegetarian). 8 am-9 pm every day.
- Hunan Village in Arcata is surprisingly good, especially for a small-town Chinese restaurant. Portions are huge. 752 18th Street, Arcata. Mon-Fri 11 am-9 pm, Sat 2 pm-9 pm, closed Sun. Closed most holiday weekends (Columbus Day, President's Day, etc.).
- The wildly popular Tomo Japanese Restaurant serves robust Japanese food including great sushi. Go early to avoid the crowds. 708 9th Street, Arcata (on the plaza; enter through the Hotel Arcata lobby). Open 7 days a week; I think they close at 9 pm.
- Just down the street is Sushi Spot, which is also very popular. The focus here is on sushi and there's only a limited selection of other dishes. 670 9th Street, Arcata. Tue-Thu 4 pm-9 pm, Fri-Sat 4 pm-10 pm, closed Sun-Mon. Open on most holidays.
- Hunan Plaza has pretty good food, but the dining room is small and noisy compared to the relatively sedate Hunan Village. A good backup for when Hunan Village is closed, which is a lot. 761 8th Street, Arcata (south side of plaza). Tue-Thu 11 am-9:15 pm, Fri 11 am-9:45 pm, Sat noon-9:45 pm, Sun noon-9:15 pm, closed Mon.
- Renata's Creperie serves really tasty crepes and big bowls of soup in a funky coffeehouse setting (bare wooden tables with mismatched chairs, local art on the walls). Lots of local character. Perhaps reflecting the restaurant's orgin as a lunch truck, the crepe fillings tend to be simple, based on cheese, egg, and ham. They're open for breakfast (the menu is the same). At up to $30 per person, a full meal can be a bit expensive, but it's good. 1030 G Street, Arcata, just north of the plaza. Tue-Sun 8 am-3 pm, Fri-Sat 5 pm-9 pm, closed Mon.
- Cafe Brio: on the plaza, Arcata. Mainly serves pastries and sandwiches; more expensive dinners served Wed-Fri. Sat-Sun 8-7; Mon-Tue 7-4; Wed-Thu 7-7; Fri 7-9.
- La Trattoria is a small mom-and-pop place serving updated Italian food with an emphasis on fresh, natural flavors. The web page makes it look a lot fancier than it is. The menu is limited (6 pasta dishes, 1 non-pasta dish, 3 appetizers, a salad, and a dessert) and changes daily. As post-hike food I find that it's not quite satisfying enough, but it's perfect if you want a light dinner. 30 Sunnybrae Center, Sunny Brae. Take the Samoa / Sunny Brae exit of Highway 101 toward Sunny Brae. Turn left at the second traffic circle, then pull into the strip mall on your left. La Trattoria is in the little building off to the side of the main building. Thu-Sun 5:30-9 pm; closed Mon-Wed.
- After 10 pm there's not much open in Arcata except Humboldt Brews, which has burgers and sandwiches. 856 10th Street, Arcata. Mon-Wed 11:30 am-midnight, Thu-Sat 11:30 am-2 am, Sun 11:30 am-9 pm.
- Kebab Cafe is a typical burger/kabob joint in a nondescript shopping center at the northern edge of town. They serve kabobs, gyros, falafel, and burgers. The food is OK but not great. 5000 Valley West Blvd #19, Arcata. Mon-Fri 11 am - 8 pm, Sat 12-7 pm, closed Sun. They stop taking orders well before closing time.
- Mazzotti's is one of the most popular restaurants in Arcata; it's often voted best Italian restaurant by readers of the Times-Standard. To me, the food here seems mass-produced; I prefer the more home-cooked flavors of Marcelli's. South side of the plaza in Arcata; also in Old Town Eureka. Mon-Thu 11:30 am-9 pm; Fri 11:30 am-10 pm; Sat 3:30 pm-10 pm; Sun 3:30 pm-9 pm.
View from Ted's Ridge, Trees of Mystery
Restaurants (Eureka and Ferndale)
- Marcelli's Ravioli and Sausage Factory in Eureka doesn't have the greatest ambiance, but its classic Italian-American fare is perfect comfort food after a long hike. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm.
- Restaurant 301, in the Hotel Carter, is the area's fanciest restaurant. The food really is good, although personally, after a day of hiking I usually prefer a more down-to-earth setting.
- Pho Thien Long: A surprisingly good Vietnamese soup noodle joint and one of the area's best ethnic restaurants. They mostly serve spring rolls, soup noodles, and barbeque dishes. The "bun" bowl is great - thin strips of barbequed pork, shrimp, and egg rolls over rice noodles that you drizzle with sweet fish sauce, chili sauce, and hoisin sauce. 615 F Street (near town hall), Eureka. Mon-Sat 10 am-8:30 pm; Sun 10 am-7 pm.
Grocery stores
- No visit to an old-growth redwood park can properly begin without first getting provisions from a hippie grocery store, and Arcata's North Coast Co-Op is one of the best, with such redwood hiking essentials as grilled tofu sandwiches and fresh-baked vegetarian hot pockets. The bakery also makes good pastries and pies. There's a larger branch in Eureka. 6 am-9 pm, 7 days a week; bakery closes at 7 pm.
- Wildberries has a more yuppie-ish ambiance. There are fewer backpack-friendly foods to be found here than in the Co-Op, but the Ramone's Bakery counter inside the store (open until 9 pm) has ham-and-swiss croissants and excellent pastries. The late hours are a godsend for travelers. 7 am-midnight, 7 days a week.
Other stores
- A great store for outdoor gear is Adventure's Edge. 630 10th Street, Arcata (well-hidden a block north and east of the plaza). Mon-Sat 9 am-6 pm, Sun 11 am-5 pm.
Entertainment
- The Humboldt Music website has the most complete list of upcoming music events.
- KHUM's Good Time Guide is another list of upcoming concerts and plays.
Weather
National Weather Service pages for Orick
Weather Channel pages for Orick
Memorial Lighthouse, Trinidad
© 2005-9 David Baselt
