Bolinas Ridge

Length 10.6 mi · Climbing 1200 ft

California > San Francisco Bay Area > Samuel P. Taylor State Park

Bolinas Ridge Fire Road

Background

This immensely enjoyable loop offers some really superb views over the rolling hills of western Marin County. On a drizzly spring day when the hills are green and the cows are grazing along the trail, Bolinas Ridge has a striking resemblance to the Cotswold Way in England.

The loop is popular with mountain bikers, most of whom prefer to cycle in the counter-clockwise direction to avoid a steep climb up Shafter Grade. However, if you hike in this direction you'll find Bolinas Ridge Fire Road to be a long uphill pull, during which you mostly see the dirt road rising up directly in front of you. In contrast, if you hike in a clockwise direction you'll have a steep climb up Shafter Grade, but that will be followed a long descent down Bolinas Ridge with spectacular sweeping views of the Olema Valley in front of you.

The hike begins and ends with a few miles on the Cross Marin Trail, which can be a little dull. There's constant traffic noise from Sir Francis Drake Boulevard and little to see on the flat dirt road. However, on a nice day the redwood-lined road is a pleasant and easy stroll.

The entire hike is on dirt roads, paved roads, and a paved section of the Cross Marin Trail. The ridgetop fire roads can get unpleasantly muddy in the winter.

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Hike description

Start at the Samuel P. Taylor parking lot. Walk along the road to the campgrounds, across the auto bridge, and turn left onto the Cross Marin Trail, which at this point is a paved road, at the T intersection. The road soon becomes a dirt road and you'll pass the Pioneer Tree Trail.

The Cross Marin Trail continues for several miles of flat, easy walking along a former railroad bed under second-growth redwoods. The route parallels Sir Francis Drake Boulevard and at one point crosses it on a bridge. This path is popular with local walkers and cyclists.

The Cross Marin Trail ends at the Inkwells Bridge, which crosses the creek and leaves you on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Cross the Boulevard and head right, across an auto bridge, to the Leo T. Cronin Fish Viewing Area. When the water is high you're supposed to be able to view spawning salmon in the creek, but I've never seen any. This area has a small parking lot that's open in the winter, but you're not allowed to park there for more than a hour.

Bolinas Ridge Fire Road

Turn into the fish viewing area and walk through the parking lot on the dirt road. As you continue on the dirt road you'll come to an intersection with the remains of another dirt road that the park mostly removed to control erosion. To your right, the main dirt road begins to climb steeply, winding through a lush and attractive redwood forest. The climb is difficult and it seems to go on forever, but once at the top you'll be rewarded with miles of downhill hiking.

Shafter Grade Fire Road ends at a T intersection with the Bolinas Ridge Fire Road. If you were to head left here you'd pass through some redwood groves that may be old growth, eventually reaching Mount Tamalpais State Park. Instead, head right. The scenic road climbs a little more, winding through open fields and passing through a gate before cresting a hill. Here you get a spectacular view of the ridgetop cow pastures with the rolling hills of the Olema Valley below. The dirt road actually passes through the cow pasture and on occasion cows may be standing around on the road. Once a herd of cows started following me as I walked through, stopping whenever I stopped.

Jewell Fire Road

The road divides into two parallel roads as it reaches the bottom of a hill. The road to your left is a ranch road, while the road to your right is the fire road. Stay to your right, passing through a gate. There follows a somewhat dull mile of road, with the views to your left screened by a line of brush and trees, while to your right is the edge of the redwood forest.

As you pass through another gate, the views open up again. Just after the trail curves to the right and crests a small hill, you'll see the town of Olema in the distance, sitting at the tip of Tomales Bay. As the trail descends the hill, look for the Jewell Fire Road to your right. This road is fainter than the Bolinas Ridge road. If you were to continue straight on the Bolinas Ridge road, you'd continue to descend through really scenic pastures until reaching Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Instead head right on the Jewell Fire Road, which is also pretty scenic, with some great views of the San Geronimo Valley.

Jewell Fire Road ends at the shady Cross Marin Trail, which is paved in this area. Turn right and head back to the Samuel P. Taylor parking lot.

The Cross Marin Trail