With an abundance of huge trees set in an interesting progression of different environments, the extraordinary Boy Scout Tree Trail is not so much a hike as a showcase of the world’s best redwood scenery. The trail feels wonderfully remote and is one of the most pristine old-growth trails in existence; there are only a handful of trails where you can walk through old-growth redwoods for this long without hearing traffic noise or seeing any sign of development.
One of the best parts of the Boy Scout Tree experience is the drive to the trailhead. For two miles you’ll bump and wind through truly top-notch old growth along the unpaved Howland Hill Road. At the trailhead, located in a spectacular redwood grove, there’s a little pullout that can accommodate about six cars. Across from the trailhead is a vault toilet and a few paved handicapped parking spaces.
If at all possible, try to visit on a sunny day. Jed Smith’s unique brilliance is a big part of what makes this trail so great, and the woods can get kind of drab when the sun isn’t out. Most other redwood parks aren’t affected as much by the lack of sunshine.
It’s also best to start in the morning. In the days before social media no one know about this trail, but it’s now one of the most popular trails in Redwood National and State Parks. On summer and fall weekends twenty or thirty cars line the road at the trailhead, and guided-tour groups sometimes show up. Winter weekends aren’t as busy; there may be three or four cars are parked at the trailhead, and you might encounter a group of hikers every hour on the trail. Because of the increased use the trail is getting somewhat rough, with lots of exposed roots, and parts of it get a little muddy in the winter.
This is an out-and-back hike, and I always find the return trip a lot more enjoyable than the outbound trip, since by and large the redwoods get gradually more impressive on the return.
The hike gets off to a great start, passing through a majestic, jungle-like lowland redwood forest. The trees, which grow out of a plush carpet of ferns, are gigantic and most of them have very light, almost white bark. Lichens drip from the branches of the smaller trees.
The trail crosses a stream and then meanders pleasantly up a gently-sloped hillside. As the trail climbs the forest quickly opens up, becoming less overgrown, and the hillside vantage point offers superb views of the huge trees all around. A solid carpet of ferns covers the ground, unbroken except for the redwoods. There are few other plants around, giving the area a manicured, garden-like appearance. If it’s not windy or raining, it can be incredibly still and quiet here — it almost feels like being indoors. If it’s a sunny morning, the sun will be at your back you’ll notice that each tree has its own color and texture. In the afternoon or on a cloudy day the trees look more uniform.
As the trail reaches the ridge and levels out, it enters a typical redwood upland. The trees become smaller and further apart, and huckleberry bushes clog the understory.
As it begins to descend from the ridge, the trail enters a dense but exceptionally open stand of upland redwoods. This distinctive cathedral-like hillside grove is almost pure redwood, with only a few hazelnut trees sharing the hillside. The redwoods, though good-sized, are smaller than those near the trailhead, and have a uniform and somewhat drab brown color.
As the trail descends, it leaves this grove and enters a lush, diverse woodland. Although dominated by big redwoods, the forest seems to have a smaller and more intimate scale than it did before. The canopy lets a lot of sunlight in, giving the forest a uniquely brilliant and colorful look. In many ways this is the prettiest part of the hike, and it’s even better on the return trip, when the sun backlights the foliage. On foggy days the distant hooting of a foghorn drifts over from Crescent City, adding to the otherworldly feel.
The trail crosses tiny Jordan Creek and the nearly-pure redwood forest briefly gives way to a dark and lush mixed-species woodland dominated by lichen-draped spruce trees.
The trail then passes through a remarkable little valley, which I think is the real payoff of the hike. The redwoods here are sparse, growing in isolation or in small groups of two or three, but they’re immense — some of the most impressive anywhere. The unusually open canopy in this valley of giants lets you see the tops of the trees; in the distance, across the creek, more huge trees are visible. The trickling of the creek fills the forest.
Leaving the monster trees behind, the trail descends to the valley bottom, where redwoods are naturally absent. The trail passes by streamside maples and brush for a stretch, then skirts the edge of the redwoods before re-entering the forest. A short, unmarked side trail leads to the Boy Scout Tree, a giant double tree resembling the two-fingered Boy Scout salute.
The trail ends, somewhat anticlimactically, at Fern Falls, a small cascade at the edge of the redwoods. At one time the trail may have continued on, exiting the park and joining up with the nearby National Park Way, but if so, no trace of the former route remains.
© 2007, 2008, 2009, 2012, 2016 David Baselt